NYC chef says he’ll make pasta by hand as US tariffs threaten to double prices

NEW YORK - In a corner of SoHo, the scent of fresh dough and flour fills Casasalvo, where chef Salvo Lo Castro has taken a centuries-old craft into his own hands. Facing proposed U.S. tariffs that could double the price of Italian pasta, the former Vatican chef has turned away from imports entirely — and back to the art of handmade pasta.

SoHo chef's pasta-proposal problem

The U.S. Department of Commerce has proposed a 91.74% anti-dumping duty on Italian pasta, arguing that several producers have been selling below cost. 

President Trump defended the proposal, saying "tariffs are making our country an economic power again." Democrats, including Rep. Hakeem Jeffries (D-NY), counter that the policy will only raise prices for consumers. "Costs are too high. The Trump tariffs have been a failure," Jeffries said.

Italy exported roughly $800 million in pasta to the U.S. last year, and Italy’s business federation, Confindustria, warns the new duties could cut production and drive up prices for American home cooks and restaurants alike.

No time to noodle around

For Salvo Lo Castro, owner of the upscale Italian restaurant Casasalvo at 195 Spring Street in SoHo, the debate isn’t theoretical — it’s practical.

"I’m not waiting to see how it plays out," Lo Castro said. "We’ve stopped importing pasta altogether."

Lo Castro, who has cooked for two popes and countless celebrities, opened Casasalvo this summer, blending Old World craft with New York energy. His team now makes pasta entirely by hand using Italian flour and farm-fresh eggs.

He says guests won’t see higher prices on the menu — at least not yet — but admits that rising import costs could reshape how Americans cook and dine. "If pasta doubles in price, it changes everything — from grocery shelves to restaurants like mine," he said.

A handmade tradition in SoHo

At Casasalvo, Lo Castro’s kitchen emphasizes craftsmanship over convenience — with fresh paccheri guanciale, branzino, octopus and Dover sole filleted tableside. The shift to handmade pasta is both a tribute to Sicilian roots and a response to economic reality.

"Philosophically, it feels right," he said. "But for small restaurants, it’s also survival."

Beyond New York kitchens

European leaders, including France’s Emmanuel Macron, have condemned the proposal and hinted at possible WTO action. Trade experts warn that retaliatory tariffs could ripple beyond the pasta aisle, affecting wine, cheese, and other Italian imports.

If finalized, the new duties are expected to take effect in January 2026 — just as Italian producers prepare for the next export season.

For now, Lo Castro says he’ll keep rolling dough by hand, proving that New York’s Italian kitchens can adapt, even under pressure.